Readers Sight Seeing Tips

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  Sight Seeing
Outdoor Adventures & Vineyards Hilltowns Off the Beaten Track Finds
Photography Follow a Hobby ART -  ART -  ART

+Museum Passes & Reservation Tips

Festivals and Celebrations
Factory Tours Folk and Other Museums Worst Tourist Traps & Experiences
OUTSTANDING Home Bases and Town Hopping Tips Religious Sights:  Cathedrals - Churches - Museums
War Sights & Monuments  Castles - Chateau - Mansions   Parks & Gardens: City - Country

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  Outdoor Adventures

Aloha, Mele   The kids and I returned from our trip to London and France!

London and Paris were great, with the Abbey, Eiffel Tower, Versailles, etc. However, I think that we enjoyed the smaller towns most. Beaune is a great little town, and the hotel was perfect. We went biking vinyards! Chamonix was also an incredible place. A nice town with lots of great hiking. The gondola ride across the glacier was a once in a lifetime experience. Our hotel in Chamonix turned out to be very nice with a great breakfast (best part - kids were free).              Cheers, Rick of Clinton, Iowa  1 August 06


Norway:   The fjords are beautiful. Yesterday, I took the train from Oslo to Bergen via the "Norway in a Nutshell" route that Rick advocates. I did it his way, and paid cash fares for the supplements, using my rail pass for the main fare. He's right - it's possible. But be cautioned. The train ride from Myrdal to Flam may be scenic, but the passengers were packed into the train like cattle, so the only thing I saw from the train was a woman's back. When I got down to Flam, I was disappointed but not surprised. This "town" is nothing but a train terminal with LOTS of places to remove your money. Nothing else, and the ferry for the tour is conveniently scheduled for 1 hour after the train arrives, to give you plenty of time to rid yourself of the filthy lucre that's been weighing you down. There are gift shops and restaurants and more gift shops, and prices here are really bad. I bought a roll of 36 exposure film in Oslo for 33 NOK, here they wanted 62 NOK for a 24 exposure roll of the same film. I was glad I had one more roll in my pack, so I didn't have to buy it.

The ferry through the fjord is NOT the place to run out of film. It is absolutely breathtaking! Imagine these 2000 foot sheer cliffs on both sides of a 250 Meter wide passage, and water a mile deep. This is Sognefjord. There is a Russian cruise liner at the dock in Flam (the Maxim Gorkiy) and it's full of Japanese tourists. Who has the money?

The boat stopped at one of the remote villages, which are totally dependent on the ferry since there are no roads.

Some Ferry boat tips for Flam:

  1. DON'T sit on the after (rear) deck. All of the view is in front, and all of the smoke and noise are in back.
  2. DON'T sit anywhere near anyone who is feeding the birds. Get up and move if you must, but what goes in the bird will come out, and their aim is deadly. They never miss, and I have the stains to prove it.

As of Yesterday, the current fare for the 2 hour ferry ride is 135 NOK. From Gudvangen, the end of the ferry line, a bus (62 NOK) takes you to Voss. It climbs through some very steep road to the Stalheim Hotel, where it stops to let you get a view (and spend more money. The film here was even MORE expensive). Then it drops you at the railway station, where you continue to Bergen or return to Oslo. The Bergen train is at 19:00, and ours was sitting there waiting at 18:30.  Jim Swensen  (from his June '99 Road Reports)


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  Off the Beaten Track Finds


Our Diversion became the Highlight of our trip!
  Our main diversion from our itinerary was an auto trip through south central France. Rt 920 between Espallon & Aurillac was spectacular. Our stay in Vic-sur-Cere was the highlight of the trip. We were hosted by Tony & Anna Boulat at the Grand Hotel des Source, 1580 Vic-sur-Cere, France.  .(Tel. 04 71 47 50 30, FAX 04 71 49 63 55) The rooms W/baths are very large, nicely decorated & only 235-275FF. Tony is an accomplished chef and Anna, who speaks English, is the perfect hostess. The clientele were mostly French. We were so enthralled with the area and this particular hotel and owners that we are sending you some literature with hopes you will visit and confirm our enthusiasm. Tony and Anna extend their cordial welcome.    Beau & Jeanie Bouthillier


Lithuania  Reader's inside view http://w3.guideweb.com/auvergne/sitesa.html


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  Photography

Paris:  One hour photo developing is also here
, but it turned out to be expensive - about 132 Francs for 24 pictures. Still, to me it's worth it, as I don't want to experience the disaster of coming home with my pictures ruined by an airport xray machine. This way I also get to make notes while the subjects are fresh in my mind. Sorry, there's no scanner here, so you'll have to wait till I get home... Jim Swensen May 2000

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  Follow a Hobby


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  ART - ART - ART + Museum Tips

FREE London  

Florence: Pre-reserve museums

Rome: combo ticket & Vatican museum

"FREE" Sights in London for adults and children. (they may ask for a couple pound donation at the Free sights) Children 15 yr and younger are often free or very nicely discounted at some of the sights which require admissions such as the Tower and Wax museum.

Free sights include: British Museum, the Museum of Mankind, Sir John Soane's Museum, and the Museum of Garden History. The main art galleries - the National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, Tate Gallery, Wallace Collection are all free

You will also find many beautiful old churches around London which are usually free to visit, and usually open during the day. Many are masterpieces designed by Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723). There are often free mid-day music recitals in St. Martin-in-the-Fields Church, and St. John's Smith Square. There are free 30-minute lunchtime music recitals in St. Bride's Church, Fleet Street, starting 1.15pm, several days each week, except for the 4 weeks before Christmas, the 6 weeks before Easter, and all of August. (Nearest underground station: Blackfriars, nearest rail stations: Blackfriars and City Thameslink, Bus routes: 4, 11, 15, 15B, 23, 26, 76.)

Also free to watch is the 'Changing of the Guard' outside Buckingham Palace. Here you can see British soldiers in ceremonial uniform handing over their guard duties. It is a very popular tourist attraction. It is at 11.30am every two days in the winter, and every day in the summer. Arrive at least 15 minutes early to get a good view. Notices at Buckingham Palace will tell you which days it will be.

When the Houses of Parliament are in session (not over the summer), it is possible to watch the debates from the Public Gallery. There is very limited space in the Gallery, and you may have to queue and wait for a very long time.

Arrange before you go:

Attend Tower of London's "Ceremony of the Keys" Free at 21:30—a 30 min event. Write 5 weeks before hand for free tickets.  These can be obtained by written application from:

Ceremony of the Keys Office

Tower of London

LONDON, EC3N 4AB

Great Britain

Tel: +44 (0)20 3166 6278

Provide requested date, and an alternative date.  You must enclose an addressed envelope with an international reply coupon or British stamp. The best thing to do is to address it to your self at your London Hotel


Florence Museum Reservations--One Number will Reserve Uffizi - Accademia (Home of David) and Bargello  I called the Accademia and was given the following number to make reservations for all 3 museums.  They don't require CC until you pick up tickets at Florence Museum box office.  From the USA  dial  011 39 055 20 4993.  Don Everett  12 May 2000

Rome: from the front lines of Catholicism

Hi All, today we jumped on the metro to the Vatican - only to find that we were on the wrong platform and when we had to go back out to get to the other side, we invalidated the tickets we had just spent 5 euros on. Dang. But now we're whizzes with the ticket machine ... so we go to the stop for the Vatican Museums, get out, and find a Barack Obama-esque line that goes on for blocks - and here we thought we were bright and early! Even granting that this is Holy Week, I cannot believe the number of tourists; in the summer, it must be a complete zoo. But we don't feel quite so dumb when everyone else clearly is a dumb tourist too. So we decided to skip the museum and go on to St Peter's. The Onion's "Our Dumb Planet" says of the Vatican, "on this rock (St Peter) I will build an opulent mansion" ... and that isn't the half of it. Words fail. I wonder why the earth doesn't fail, because the entire edifice must weigh a very large number of tons. The stonework is incredible. The statuary aside, the floors, the walls, the columns, everything carefully chosen for color and pattern. The guidebook says the basilica will hold 60,000 people, and I believe it, because it didn't seem all that crowded once we were inside and I know there were lots of people in there. We saw Michelangelo's Pietà - Franklin commented that the clarity of the rock makes the statue seem almost alive! I marvel at how stone can be carved so fluidly, you think if you flicked the folds of the garments they would move.

After we went through the basilica, the Vatican museum line was markedly reduced, so we got in it. Not to sound too plebian, but there's a lot of Pope So-and-so's personal collection of whatever he liked to collect, which may be great art, but personally I think you can look at so many statues and paintings and it becomes hard to keep one's attention focused .... I thought the best part actually was the collection of modern religious art, which comes right before the grand finale, the Sistine Chapel. It really is worth the wait. The genius of the paintings are that the figures look almost 3D, and an intensive restoration project recently has been finished, so the colors are fantastic. There are even official Vatican shushers who shssh the assembled multitudes when the noise level in the chapel gets too high! - Sarah G of Laramie, WY  18 March 2008


Rome wasn't built in a day......

.........and you can't see it all in a day either. Today we sailed into the Roman Forum about 9 a.m. No lines, lovely. You'll be glad to hear your little traveling party is getting smarter; the Combo ticket covers the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum, and we were at the Colosseum end of the Forum, and thought it would be a great idea to pop down there and see it while we were in the vicinity. But, based on our experience with the metro tix, we thought to ask first - can we come back in? Turns out the answer is no, you get one swipe at each thing. It would have been VERY disappointing to spend 15 minutes in the Forum with what we just spent on those tickets! So ... for the morning we wandered around the Forum and Palatine Hill, which has things like the Palace of Augustus (which, when the whole thing was standing, had a perimeter of over a mile ... amazing what you can do with vision, determination, and an endless supply of expendable labor!), and new Iron Age excavations. (The excavations are new, that is, not the Iron Age remnants.) So the sum of it all is you can see old, older, and older yet, and if there is any kind of painting or carving on it, chances are 98 out of 100 it's some kind of battle scene. The other two chances are (1) a funeral procession celebrating the deceased's accomplishments, or (2) some kind of religious motif. The religious motif can be anything - for example, rather than try to raze pagan monuments like the Arch of Constantine or the Colosseum, the various popes just slapped another marble plaque on it with their own names. (For humble servants of Christ, they were pretty keen on earthly recognition for themselves.)

We did eventually make it to the Colosseum and smugly walked in with our combo tickets past a huge line of ticket-less sightseers. We were surprised to see that the bottom of the Colosseum is a maze of little chambers - turns out there was a wooden floor above these for the public entertainments, and the lions and gladiators hung out underneath, with a lift system for bringing up the lions and other wild critters. Can you imagine? "Okay, go fetch Lion Number One!" Probably sent slaves to do that in case things went awry.

Then we switched gears, walked a couple of blocks in a different direction to see Michelangelo's statue of Moses in the church of San Pietro di Vincoli, which also features an altar containing the chains which (legend says) held St Peter captive in Jerusalem. Then we went to the "church of the bones" (Santa Maria de Concepzione ... something) which has the very old skeletons of 4000 Capuchin monks artfully arranged (we did this for you, Ellen!) and a couple more churches in that area, and walked past the presidential residence, guarded by carabinieri with automatic weapons (in contrast to the carabinieri with swords we saw next to the Trevi Fountain yesterday - quite a bit less quaint).

And now, upon our return to our convent accommodation, the nice lady at the front desk who works for the monks says our pack is out at the Rome airport, and she's going to try to persuade them to bring it here. So should I wash my filthy pants in the sink, or not? (: - Sarah G of Laramie, WY  18 March 2008


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  Festivals & Celebrations

London  The "Ceremony of the Keys" was wonderful: great ceremony, an opportunity to see the Tower of London at nite--9 pm-- w/o the crowd, (8 of us there) convient location from the tube and the price is right--free!. I would definately encourage anyone that is making arrangements ahead of time to give it a go.  Marlee  14 June 99

Yesterday I attended the Rebild, Denmark 4th of July Festival I was so looking forward to. I was not disappointed. . There were 17,000 people at Rebild Fest, according to the news. Victor Borge was also there (as always) and gave the last and funniest speech. They have a Danish program mixed with an English program (they alternate). I thought it interesting that Denmark sent artists (like film director Bille some thing or other) and USA sent politicians like the governor of USVI and the ambassador to Denmark. Oh well.... There was a bluegrass music festival in a tent across the street from my hostel, so I enjoyed the music and the company in the evening.  (Rebild is a short train ride south of Arhus. Jim did a lot of research on this before he traveled--contact him for more detail  kermit@ice.is Jim Swensen  (from his June '99 Road Reports)


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  Factory Tours


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  Folk & Other Museums

Naples/Pompeii
is absolutely AWESOME. you must go. Naples was everything that everyone had told us - big, crowded, poor, dirty, wonderful people and the home of the unbelievable National Archaeological Museum.  Anyone going to Pompeii really must include a visit to this museum as part of the "experience." It has most of the choice goodies from Pompeii and Herculeneum, as well as a host of other amazing things.

London  The British Museum.....what can you say.... a truly unbelievable experience!   By the way, we found "Mona Winks" to be very valuable here and in all of the museums that we visited. .  Marlee  14 June 99


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  Worst Tourist Traps & Experiences

One thing I decided shortly after arriving in Paris is that there should be a law forbidding tourists to exit Gare du Nord on the street. They should make you immediately take a metro to a nicer part of town. As soon as I got one look at the surrounding area, I wanted to get back on another train and leave Paris! Fortunately, common sense got the better of me and I decided I wasn't seeing the best of Paris. Boy was that a good call! Jim Swensen

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  OUTSTANDING

Hi, I haven't been able to attend your events but appreciate being on your e mail and mailing list.  I just got back from a trip to Turkey and found it to be an incredible experience - I highly recommend it.        Thanks, Ruth of Oahu 28 November 2000


Cinque Terre Cyber Report:  Hi Mele,  This is Kelli Lim emailing you from Ostella 5 Terre in Monorola. The weather here is beautiful. We did a hike through all five towns yesterday. You were right - the French Riviera was nothing compared to this. London, Paris, Amsterdam, Barcelona, and Nice (Monaco, Monte Carlo, Cannes - just in time for the international film festival) have been great. This is our last day in Cinque Terre and then we are off to Venice.  Thanks again for all your help. Everything has worked out so well. I am excited to tell you all about it when I get back. Hope everything is well with you in Hawaii.      Kelli  Oahu  19 May 2000
   90 Days Around Europe: Journal by Bruce Walters
  
Trip Debrief -- includes Cybercafe tips, London, Italy Bike Tour, Naples & Pompii plus new Paris "homey neighborhood"

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  Home Bases & Town Hopping Tips


Hi Mele,  I do agree with you that there isn't much to see in Nice & their beach is a joke. I wouldn't call a pile of rocks next to the ocean a beach. However, for a solo traveler on a tight budget, Nice is an ideal spot as a base to explore the rest of the Riviera. The rooms and food are cheap and the train, bus, markets, department stores, laundromats, pharmacies are all within walking distance. From Nice it's an easy day trip to Monaco, Eze, or Menton or west to Antibes or Cannes..    Robert Kaneshiro of Honolulu

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  Religious Sights


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  War Sights & Monuments


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  Castles - Chatau - Mansions


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  Parks & Gardens

Where are the Biotonical Gardens in Europe?  Let TERC know so we can pass this information on.

Mr. & Mrs. Leong enjoyed gardens all over Europe. This one at Fontainbleu Castle near Paris, shows Lorene Leong in front of a conical shaped tree frequently seen in French Formal Gardens. Thanks for the photo. Mele

Lorene Leong & husband Jim (behind camera) at Fontainebleau


Amsterdam -  Vondelpark was almost empty ( a RARITY) because of yesterday's rain. There is one central road in the park that's paved, and the rest are dirt and gravel paths that get really muddy in the rain. This park seems to be the gathering place for the unconventional people. Roller blades abound, as do bicycles. Pedestrians are at peril here. Keep your eyes on the road, as it were.. Jim Swensen  (from his June '99 Road Reports)

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